Lunch Thu-Sun noon-3pm;
dinner Wed-Sun 6pm-10pm,
What does it take to be the nation's top-ranked Italian restaurant? It takes ambition, a good whack of creativity, and more than a few dollars, if Ormeggio is any guide. It doesn't require a perfect setting. The view from the modern dining room onto Middle Harbour? Magical. The walk through the marina's boat-sales floor to get there? Less so. But the team conjures wizardry on the plate, not least in the Trip Through Italy menu, which transports the happy diner to the wilds of Piedmont with a bosky mulch of hazelnut shavings, chestnut, porcini and crisps of Jerusalem artichoke, and reimagines risotto alla Milanese as al dente carnaroli enriched by saffron and bone marrow, with slices of marron the luxe stand-in for osso buco. Bottoni are the crowning glory: "buttons" of perfect pasta filled with a hot grilled-Parmesan broth and dusted with roasted malt. Courtly, earnest service is an asset, especially when it's a conduit to the exceptional cellar.
6 courses $105
7 courses $125
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