Dinner Tue-Sat 6pm-10pm
Concision could be said to be a theme at Oscillate Wildly. Sure, the name (taken from a Smiths song) is exuberant, there's generosity in the bespoke service and the meal itself is taken over several courses in a leisurely manner, but the crisply monochrome terrace space is small, the wine list is tight and the plates themselves are composed with meticulous care. There's nothing extraneous in a bowl of shiitakes and scallops, the hot, rich broth of fermented mushrooms and black garlic poured at the table poaching the shellfish to a bare opacity, the merest scattering of buckwheat bringing texture. Shavings of frozen foie gras, meanwhile, melt into cauliflower and crunchy fried grains of Job's tears in a microcosm of carefully balanced flavours and textures accented with maple syrup. Desserts are no less inventive; miso and sesame are the surprise trump cards in a clever play on white chocolate. A must for any passionate diner.
Tasting menu $120