After wowing Melbourne with Tipo 00, chef Andreas Papadakis has opened a second restaurant right next door, proving that his prowess with Italian food extends beyond spaghettini and rigatoni. But don't panic, there's still pasta at Ilaria. Nettle and blue cheese gnocchi and paccheri with prawns, sorrel and perfectly pitched prawn oil are seriously compelling but Papdakis also roasts duck, makes a richly satisfying pork liver sausage, grills baby octopus and exercises admirable restraint with desserts (see the sheep's yoghurt semifreddo). There are 90 seats here, from booths to barstools, but it's the kitchen bar with its perspective over the marble pass that provides the best views. Co-owner Luke Skidmore constantly refreshes the nine-page wine list, maintaining a small producer/Old-World lean. Service is sharp and tight and the mood bustling - all this makes Ilaria one of 2017's most exciting restaurant openings.