Mon-Sat 11.30am to 11.30pm
It's easy to miss the low-profile exterior on a busy CBD street. But walk past a long concrete bar and Osteria Oggi opens to a piazza-like space, with high beams hung with vines, rows of communal tables, cosy arched alcoves and tiled floors. The menu focuses on pasta, wood-oven roasts and braises, and small share plates. Try anchovy "soldiers" - juicy cured fillets on crunchy toast, dotted with capers and drizzled with olive oil. Tuna crudo is teamed with crunchy raw fennel, preserved lemon and the pop of bottarga. Flounder roasted whole with Boston Bay mussels, chilli and tomato is right on the money, as is tagliatelle with sweet crab, smoky corn and black garlic purée. Desserts also impress: warm meringue over frozen raspberry and yoghurt in a picture-perfect bombe Alaska or espresso-drenched tiramisù affogato. Teamed with tight service and an excellent wine list focused on Italian imports, Oggi is worth seeking out.