Lunch Mon-Fri noon-3pm
Dinner Mon-Sat 5.30pm-10.30pm
True to its name, Ôter ("remove" in French) operates in a stripped-back basement space, its central open kitchen the focal point of the room. It has, after a change of chef, also discarded some of the more fancy, sometimes annoying, modern moves of previous menus. You wouldn't label it traditional French, given the presence of sea urchin served on kohlrabi "noodles" or blue swimmer crab served with pickled cucumber, cucumber foam and chopped hazelnuts, but there's comfort rather than challenge in dishes like pissaladière with lardons and superb roast duck served with pomme purée and a strikingly good smoked beetroot sauce. Desserts, like the tarte du jour (if the rhubarb and yoghurt version is available, snap it up), are precise and pretty. Smooth, restrained service is a plus, as is a wine list that follows the menu's lead, mixing up modern and traditional winemaking styles from mostly small Australian and French producers.