Lunch Mon-Fri noon-3pm
Dinner Mon-Sat 6pm-10pm
Appearing effortlessly stylish takes work. But this northern sibling to Otto Sydney makes it all seem enviably easy. While the escalator journey via Queen Street's aptly named Ravine entrance is vertiginous, it's a trip worth taking. Service is exemplary, and confident floor staff are well-versed without appearing try-hard. Linen on the tables, magenta fans overhead, and widescreen views of the river and Story Bridge bring a sense of occasion - a mood bolstered by the smart Italian-leaning wine list. The menu, meanwhile, is about refinement rather than reinvention. Fritto misto equals lightly fried calamari, school prawns and whitebait boosted by a chilli-forward mayo, while supple strands of fettuccine come coated in a rich oxtail braise. Crisp-skinned baby barramundi fillets need nothing but salsa verde to wow, and tart apricot sorbet prevents a nougat mousse from tipping into cloying sweetness. All in all, a precisely calibrated affair.