Lunch Mon-Sat noon-2.30pm;
dinner Mon-Thu 6pm-8.45pm,
The space, despite its beautiful bare sandstone walls and busy open kitchen, doesn't quite click. It feels like Peacock & Jones has been squashed somewhere it doesn't quite fit, leaving everyone, including the serving staff, with awkward moments - having the dishwashing area next to the entrance, for example, is not ideal. But there's no such uneasiness about what comes out of the kitchen. Dishes are plated loosely, without artifice, making them highly dependent on great produce, and everything on each plate is in agreement. Meaty tomatoes in a simple salad get a boost from mojama; turnip tops and radicchio nicely counter twice-cooked pork neck; and poire William sorbet plays a similar role opposite a rich crème brûlée. To go with all this, there's a small wine list, mainly Tasmanian, with a good selection by the glass. The light and airy atrium is good for daytime dining, but the main dining room wins after dark - then the heritage space comes into its own.
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