The February issue

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Pei Modern
Modern European
  • Collins Place,
    45 Collins St,
    Melbourne, VIC
  • (03) 9654 8545,
  • Lunch Mon-Fri noon-3pm

    Dinner daily 5.30pm-10.30pm

Pei Modern

There's steak sizzling on a grill. There's an exciting drinks list ditching the predictable taxonomy for headings such as "textural and juicy" reds. There are unflappable waiters gliding through the smart dining area. Little wonder Mark Best's southern outpost is so popular - it's the epitome of a modern-day bistro. Appetisers and entrées following the excellent sourdough bread include fine Sydney rock oysters, salt-cod croquettes and a dainty mix of pickled beetroot, both orange and red, with buffalo mozzarella and quartered plums. Hot off the wood-fired grill comes a deftly prepared hanger steak jazzed up with leeks, onions and a dollop of caramelised yoghurt. Steamed barramundi topped with crisp saltbush leaves and a black, smoky eggplant purée is a wonderful interplay of complementary flavours and textures. Classic French desserts include shards of meringue, proper vanilla ice-cream and poached plums.

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At a glance

  • Food:
  • One Star
  • Wine:
  • Two glasses
  • Price:
  • E $15-$25

    M $30-$40

    D $14-$17

  • Feature:
  • Licensed
    Wheelchair Access
    Outdoor dining
    Impressive Wine List
  • Cards:
  • American Express
  • Bookings:
  • Bookings recommended
  • Chef:
  • Mark Best & Anthony Hammel


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