Lunch Mon-Fri noon-3pm;
Dinner Mon-Sat 5.30pm-10.30pm
Behold, a hotel restaurant that cares. From the house-baked sourdough to the understated interior, the whole package at the Sydney branch of Pei is impressively polished. It's a level of finesse you'd expect with the culinary genius of Mark Best at the helm. His ethos is clearly delineated: the produce shines, the flavours are fresh and the execution is smart and unadorned. Slices of heirloom tomato burst with ripeness alongside capers and Ortiz anchovies, while fermented spring onion and corn kernels add kick to Nelson Bay pipis in a delicate pale-ale broth, and new-season figs pop against a simple buttermilk ice-cream and honeycomb. The room transcends the stuffiness of a conventional hotel lobby diner with sleek timber furnishings, sultry lighting and a vast open kitchen providing plenty of spectacle. There's similar consideration in the service and the wine list, both of which are sharp and well conceived.