Lunch Mon-Fri noon-3pm
Dinner Mon-Wed, 6pm-10pm, Thu-Sat 6pm-midnight
There's rôtisserie chicken, of course. Philippe Mouchel's legion of followers wouldn't allow him to open a restaurant without it. And for good reason: it's a benchmark bird, from golden skin and juicy flesh through to the accompanying potatoes basted in the chicken's juices. But there are many (some might say better) reasons to flock to Mouchel's digs in the basement once occupied by Brooks. There's his pâté en croûte, for one, a masterful take of the classic, sculpturally plated and studded with foie gras. Or sublime rockling and mussels on a gently crunchy celery risotto moistened with fish soup. Or superb floating islands, the poached meringue concealing a centre of hazelnut praline. Oysters are shucked at the zinc bar, the ideal place to rinse them down with Champagne, the service is smart and the mostly French-Australian wine list well priced. Above all, it's Mouchel's presence at the pass that makes Philippe so welcome an arrival.
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