Lunch Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm
Dinner Mon-Sat 6pm-9.30pm
Legendary French chef Philippe Mouchel's career trajectory in Melbourne may appear progressively more casual (from Bocuse to the bistro-y PM24 and Deja Vue), but the sub-title at his latest venture - "Un restaurant par Philippe Mouchel" - represents a reversal of sorts, a declaration of serious culinary intent. An early clue lies in the oysters: not merely accompanied by the expected mignonette, but instead dramatically suspended in green apple jelly, with an underlying smear of Chantilly cream. It is designed for wow factor and it delivers. The wagyu tartare also surprises, artfully plated, and sweetened with shaved beets and pomegranate to bright, summery effect. There remain comfort points, such as the rôtisserie chicken upon which much of Mouchel's latter-day reputation lies. Close out dinner with the light, refined oeuf à la neige with passion fruit curd and be witness to high French culinary ambitions expertly realised.