Lunch Tue-Sun noon-2.30pm;
dinner Tue-Sat 6pm-10.30pm
There are worse places to put a Sardinian restaurant than by the sea, and Pilu is close enough that the waves almost lap at its feet. The interior might be moreHouse & GardenthanLa Grande Bellezza, but sprightly staff and impeccable sourcing keep the focus on freshness. The restaurant is justly famous for its wine list, a kind of mash note to the island that calls vermentino home. The sommelier steers through it ably, even lovingly, and fine wines can be had without dire fiscal consequences. There are three menus on the weekend: a dégustation, a tradizionale and an innovativo. But supple octopus in a paprika crust with a potato and parsley cake, and tagliolini with Moreton Bay bug, bottarga and cherry tomatoes manage to be both traditional and innovative at the same time. Seafood might seem the natural choice with the deep-blue view out the window, but the roast suckling pig remains the island's (literally) golden exemplar.
Mon-Fri 2 courses $75, 3 courses $90;
Sat-Sun 3 courses $95