Lunch Thu-Mon noon-3pm
Dinner Fri-Sat 6pm-9pm
Though only a couple of years old, Polperro has the well-oiled moves of a veteran. Service, often the weakest link in regional restaurants, is a strength since Bryan Lloyd (ex-Brooks, Vue de Monde) came on board as manager, his team hitting the sweet-spot where personable meets efficient. The sophisticated yet relaxed room nails it, too, even at night when the beautiful lunchtime view of grapevines fades out. Chef Daniel Kerekes' menu can read tricky (vanilla gel, parmesan foam), but the solid cooking and honest flavours keep it grounded. Scallops, burnt corn, polenta cream and fried veal sweetbreads shows flavour and textural dexterity, while semolina gnocchi with Jerusalem artichokes and mushrooms put comfort front and centre. Desserts, caramelised apples, say, with toffee ginger sponge and gingerbread ice-cream, are clever and not dizzy with sugar, while the drinks list is far from parochial, placing estate wines alongside labels from around the globe.