Dion Robeson
Tubaq alyawm. It’s Arabic for “today’s dish” and its presence on the menu is one of many surprises that await eaters – as is the curiosity that some of Australia’s sharpest Middle Eastern food is in a converted bus garage in boho-chic North Freo. Don’t let the café-esque aesthetic fool you, Propeller is an operation of substance; from the attentive service and thoughtful drinks list to a kitchen that sweats the little things. Sometimes the food is about the familiar cooked with precision: spiced rankin cod entombed in shattering brik pastry, perhaps, or dense orange almond cake with an intense pistachio ice-cream. Other times, it’s about getting a crash course in the breadth of Levantine and Maghreb flavours, such as learning that a Tunisian-style tajine maadnous is closer to an omelette than a stew, or that roast Brussels sprouts plus anchovies and pickled eggs is a fine way to win friends with salad.
ABOUT
Propeller
222 Queen Victoria St, North Fremantle, WA
(08) 9335 9366
Chef Kurt Sampson
Price guide $$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide 2022
Our guide gives a yearly snapshot of the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national Top 80.
