Brunch Sat-Sun 9am-2pm
Lunch Fri-Sun noon-2pm
Dinner daily 6pm-9.30pm
Suburban sophistication. Pulp Kitchen has turned a seeming paradox into a unique selling point: a raucous, homely restaurant next to a small shopping centre that is part of its local community, but has ambitions beyond being merely handy. It's BYO, but its blackboard offers decent Bordeaux and Argentinean malbec alongside herb-crumbed lambs' brains and sauce gribiche, and pan-fried monkfish paired with pearl-barley risotto and fennel. Plating is typically of the strewn-around-the-plate-inpiles-joined-by-drizzle school: scallops and blood sausage dotted around florets of cauliflower and slashes of sherry vinegar, say. A dry-aged sirloin (blackened rather than nicely browned, alas) is more robustly presented, simply with a round of Café de Paris butter, pickled onion and golden fondant potato. Black sesame ice-cream brings a curious twist to a tarte Tatin, while a little sass makes up for any timing lapses on the floor.
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