Dinner Tue-Sat 6.30pm-10pm
Like surprise packages? This one's worth unwrapping. Minimal signage and an unremarkable brick building undersell the dégustation pleasures within. The absence of an indicative website menu - just a list of seasonal ingredients - intrigues further. Inside, dark walls and simple wooden tables direct focus to the pretty contents of Japanese-style ceramics, which are ferried out by a UN of staff, drilled to explain each detail. To start, a flurry of snacks: crisp-shelled Gruyère puffs, a smoky dashi-fuelled apple bubble tea with spanner crab, and grissini wrapped in dehydrated watermelon. It's adventurous, detailed and thought-provoking. Some dishes convince less: local marron is obscured by a red cabbage concoction. But overall it's a win for the diner, especially when it's accompanied by well-matched wines. Sherbet-dusted blueberries also hit high notes with buttermilk ice-cream and zingy passionfruit curd.
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