If you could distil the essence of Noosa and turn it into a restaurant, it would probably look a lot like Rickys - all shimmering water views, airy, floor-to-ceiling glass, white walls and polished floorboards. This is a room that's as handsome by night as by day, and at sunset when flying foxes take wing downriver, it's at its most striking. The wine list, strewn with inspiration from the world's great regions, is another study in seemingly effortless chic, as is nicely paced, affable service. Rye crackers topped with beetroot cream and goat's milk cheese, and squares of grilled haloumi zinged up with green tomato pickle kick things off with verve. Crisp-skinned Queensland black cobia, its milky, sweet flesh complemented by a tart buttermilk sauce, charred cucumber and nutty barley grains, is an elegant follow up. To finish, a petal-dotted, dry-ice shattered milk parfait with tart lime curd and shortbread crumbs tastes like endless summer on a plate.
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