Lunch Mon-Fri noon-3pm;
Dinner Mon-Fri 6pm-11pm, Sat 5.30pm-11pm, Sun 5.30pm-10pm
Rockpool Bar & Grill delivers the glamour via its thrilling Deco-era dining room, all soaring pillars, mood lighting and lofty ceilings, but its real strength is getting the basics right. The cooking and admirable ingredients (Burrawong chicken, Robbins Island wagyu, Redgate Farm partridge) are even more impressive given the menu's breadth: 60-plus dishes, including a list of dry-aged, wood-grilled steak, pretty desserts like nectarines with viognier granita and some of the best seafood in town. Raw flathead served with freekeh, curls of crisp skin and sumac is as refreshing as the mussels teamed with sobrasada and tomato are comforting. Semolina noodles tossed with spanner crab and spicy prawn oil knock it out of the park. There are significant mark-ups on wine by the glass, but value to be had elsewhere on the wide-ranging list. Service matches the quality of the whole package, both on the floor and in the not-to-be missed bar.