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  • Riverside at Crown,
    8 Whiteman St,
    Melbourne, VIC
  • (03) 8648 1999,
  • Lunch Tue-Sun noon-3pm

    Dinner daily 6pm-11pm


Neil Perry's homage to Italian glamour is so gorgeous and intoxicating that it almost makes theme restaurants seem like a great idea. The marble tiling and panelling, the red-velvet banquettes, the flirty waiters and the black-and-white portraits of Italian stars could all add up to gauche grandstanding if the food were not so honest and heartfelt, and if the service were not so sensitive and schooled. The menu is long, ranging from peasant dishes with aplomb (handmade pasta tubes tossed with tomato, squid, salty bottarga and spiky chilli) to elegant and composed studies in perfect simplicity (sweet, fat raw scampi with orange, mint and pistachio). The wine list is a lavish, loving tour of Italy, and deluxe desserts dance from a simple scoop of house-made gelati - do try the fior di latte - to torta and torrone that are as layered and luxurious as the restaurant's interiors.

Photography: Julian Kingma.

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At a glance

  • Food:
  • One Star
  • Wine:
  • Two glasses
  • Price:
  • E $19-$38

    M $29-$56

    D $8-$21

  • Feature:
  • Licensed
    Wheelchair Access
    Outdoor dining
    Private room
  • Cards:
  • American Express
    Diners Club
  • Bookings:
  • Bookings recommended
  • Chef:
  • Neil Perry & Brendan Sheldrick



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