The February issue

Our clean eating issue is out now, packed with super lunch bowls, gluten-free desserts and more - including our cruising special, covering all luxury on the seas.

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Recipes by Christine Manfield
21.02.2017

As the '90s dawned, darling chefs were pushing the boundaries of cooking in this country. A young Christine Manfield, just starting out at this heady time, soon became part of the generation that redefined modern Australian cuisine. She shares some of her timeless signatures from the era.

Cirrus, Sydney review
20.02.2017

Cirrus moves the Bentley team down to the water and into more lighthearted territory without sacrificing polish, writes Pat Nourse.

How to grow rocket
20.02.2017

A vegetable patch without rocket lacks a great staple, according to Mat Pember. The perennial performer is a leaf for all seasons.

50BestTalks brings World’s best chefs to Sydney and Melbourne
16.02.2017

Massimo Bottura and more are coming to the Sydney Opera House.

Toby Wilson, Sean McManus and Jon Kennedy to open Bad Hombres
16.02.2017

Expect Mexican-Asian flavours and an all-natural wine list from two of Sydney’s edgier operators.

Local Knowledge: Moscow
16.02.2017

Director of Shakespeare theatre company Cheek by Jowl Declan Donnellan walks us through the essential sights and his favourite cafes and restaurants of his hometown.

On the Pass: Danielle Rensonnet
16.02.2017

Bellota chef Danielle Rensonnet talks us through the current menu at the restaurant and her favourite summer ingredients.

Melbourne's Tomato Festival is back in 2017
15.02.2017

Returning for another year, Melbourne’s Tomato Festival is ripe with cooking demonstrations, talks, and produce stalls dedicated to plump produce.

69
Rosetta
Italian
  • Riverside at Crown,
    8 Whiteman St,
    Southbank,
    Melbourne, VIC
  • (03) 8648 1999,
    www.rosettaristorante.com
  • Lunch Tue-Sun noon-3pm

    Dinner daily 6pm-11pm

Rosetta
-37.823959,144.958706

Is cassata an apt analogy for this casino restaurant? Consisting of sponge casing, creamy filling, marzipan, pistachio-tinted icing and crowned with lavish amounts of glacé fruit, it's sweet, it's over the top, it's look-at-me. But wait - that filling has a wonderful earthiness. Goat's curd gives it an edge, a reminder that beneath the chandeliers, between the multimillion-dollar wine cellar and hovering waiters, there is genuine, gorgeous Italian food and the steady hand of Neil Perry. Blood plum, ricotta and radicchio salad is exquisitely balanced. Char-grilled squid, simple and true. Pasta as good as pasta gets. Main courses from the wood-fired oven are the best of their kind: duck breast with grilled fig and grape reduction, say, or porchetta with requisite crackling. They don't come cheap, and price is no guarantee against the occasional botched job: an inexperienced server, a drinks mix-up. But delve beneath the showy surfaces and you'll find Rosetta is the real deal.

Photography: Julian Kingma.


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At a glance

  • Food:
  • One Star
  • Wine:
  • Three glasses
  • Price:
  • E $19-$38

    M $42-$52

    D $21-$23

  • Feature:
  • Licensed
    Bar
    Vegetarian
    Wheelchair Access
    Outdoor dining
    Private room
    Impressive Wine List
  • Cards:
  • American Express
    Diners Club
    Eftpos
    MasterCard
    Visa
  • Bookings:
  • Bookings essential
  • Chef:
  • Angel Fernandez & Neil Perry

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