• Riverside at Crown,
    8 Whiteman St,
    Melbourne, VIC
  • (03) 8648 1999,
  • Lunch Tue-Sun noon-3pm

    Dinner daily 6pm-11pm


Is cassata an apt analogy for this casino restaurant? Consisting of sponge casing, creamy filling, marzipan, pistachio-tinted icing and crowned with lavish amounts of glacé fruit, it's sweet, it's over the top, it's look-at-me. But wait - that filling has a wonderful earthiness. Goat's curd gives it an edge, a reminder that beneath the chandeliers, between the multimillion-dollar wine cellar and hovering waiters, there is genuine, gorgeous Italian food and the steady hand of Neil Perry. Blood plum, ricotta and radicchio salad is exquisitely balanced. Char-grilled squid, simple and true. Pasta as good as pasta gets. Main courses from the wood-fired oven are the best of their kind: duck breast with grilled fig and grape reduction, say, or porchetta with requisite crackling. They don't come cheap, and price is no guarantee against the occasional botched job: an inexperienced server, a drinks mix-up. But delve beneath the showy surfaces and you'll find Rosetta is the real deal.

Photography: Julian Kingma.

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At a glance

  • Food:
  • One Star
  • Wine:
  • Three glasses
  • Price:
  • E $19-$38

    M $42-$52

    D $21-$23

  • Feature:
  • Licensed
    Wheelchair Access
    Outdoor dining
    Private room
    Impressive Wine List
  • Cards:
  • American Express
    Diners Club
  • Bookings:
  • Bookings essential
  • Chef:
  • Angel Fernandez & Neil Perry



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