Lunch Thu-Sun noon-2.30pm
Dinner Wed-Sun 6pm-9pm
Robin Wickens' gig at Dunkeld's Royal Mail means he's more self-sufficient than most chefs. Direct access to his own beef, lamb, orchards, olive groves, eggs and enormous vegetable plots is put to good use, both in the renovated former Public Bar (now Parker Street Project) and the flagship dining room. Wickens' plating remains artful, the "casually scattered" look working equally well with garlicky garden snails teamed with toasted rice, and with a gorgeous dessert of chocolate, blackberries and nasturtium leaves and flowers. Precisely cooked lamb is lifted further with dehydrated goat's cheese and a curiously satisfying blossom gel, snapper by an earthy chestnut custard. The slightly awkward dining space is as inviting as it's ever been and the service rarely misses a beat. The legendary wine list inspires many to make the three-hour drive from Melbourne, but Wickens' clever, regional cooking exerts a magnetic pull all of its own.