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Royal Mail Hotel
Modern Australian
  • 98 parker st (glenelg hwy),
    Dunkeld, VIC
  • (03) 5577 2241,
  • Lunch daily noon-2.30pm

    Dinner daily 6pm-9.30pm

Royal Mail Hotel

Yes, Dan Hunter has left the building but the Royal Mail is still a particularly good regional fine-diner. The cellar - fabled, awesome, encyclopedic - remains a good reason for making the three-hour-plus drive from Melbourne, while the dining room, after years of constant tweaking, is warmer and more comfortable than ever. Chef Robin Wickens is now in charge, retaining the regionally focused style of menu, while shaping it distinctively, particularly with his artfully strewn presentations. The ingredient combinations can be both off the wall - a deliciously big-flavoured mix of oxtail, smoky octopus and pine-mushroom ketchup; a bright carrot risotto with a soy-milk crisp for texture and lovage oil - and comfortingly familiar, such as Sher wagyu teamed with onions and tarragon oil. Details in the kitchen and on the floor may not be as sharp, but the Mail's more relaxed vibe definitely has its own attractions.

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At a glance

  • Food:
  • One Star
  • Wine:
  • Three glasses
  • Price:
  • Dégustation $150

  • Feature:
  • Licensed
    Wheelchair Access
    Outdoor dining
    Private room
  • Cards:
  • American Express
    Diners Club
  • Bookings:
  • Bookings recommended
  • Chef:
  • Robin Wickens



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