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100
Royal Mail Hotel
Modern Australian
  • 98 Parker St (Glenelg Hwy),
    Dunkeld, VIC
  • (03) 5577 2241,
    www.royalmail.com.au/
  • Lunch Thu-Sun noon-2.30pm

    Dinner Wed-Sun 6pm-9pm

     

Royal Mail Hotel
-37.649143,142.341158

Robin Wickens' gig at Dunkeld's Royal Mail means he's more self-sufficient than most chefs. Direct access to his own beef, lamb, orchards, olive groves, eggs and enormous vegetable plots is put to good use, both in the renovated former Public Bar (now Parker Street Project) and the flagship dining room. Wickens' plating remains artful, the "casually scattered" look working equally well with garlicky garden snails teamed with toasted rice, and with a gorgeous dessert of chocolate, blackberries and nasturtium leaves and flowers. Precisely cooked lamb is lifted further with dehydrated goat's cheese and a curiously satisfying blossom gel, snapper by an earthy chestnut custard. The slightly awkward dining space is as inviting as it's ever been and the service rarely misses a beat. The legendary wine list inspires many to make the three-hour drive from Melbourne, but Wickens' clever, regional cooking exerts a magnetic pull all of its own. 


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At a glance

  • Food:
  • One Star
  • Wine:
  • Three glasses
  • Price:
  • Dégustations $125-$165

  • Feature:
  • Licensed
    Bar
    Vegetarian
    Wheelchair Access
    Outdoor dining
    Private room
    Impressive Wine List
  • Cards:
  • American Express
    Diners Club
    Eftpos
    MasterCard
    Visa
  • Bookings:
  • Bookings recommended
  • Chef:
  • Robin Wickens

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