Lunch Tue-Sat noon-2pm
Dinner Tue-Sat 5.30pm-10pm
After 15 years in business, Sage is maturing into veteran status, with chef Richie Pattenden steering the stately ship on its next course. Produce sourced from the restaurant's farm mixes with playful ideas such as beef tartare with spiced eggplant delivering the punch and puffed-up pork crackling bringing the crunch. Berkshire pork jowl offers generous layers of perfectly rendered fat balanced by sweet local figs and smoked cauliflower, while, for dessert, a dramatic ball of hazelnut that recalls the humble Ferrero Rocher, replete with praline parfait and caramel, is the standout. (Frozen yoghurt on a stick, by contrast, doesn't quite cut it.) The somewhat discombobulating décor - black-and-white striped walls competing for the eye with busy floral banquettes - is at least comfy and charming. Service is polished, and there's still enough interest in a wine list that has global reach even if it no longer reads like a novel.
3 courses $75
5 courses $95
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