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Sarti hit a flat spot after chef Riccardo Momesso decamped to Valentino, but it's definitely found its mojo again. The laneway darling is gleaming after a makeover and the deck is now enclosed, creating a sultry function space. Sarti works for romance, catch-ups and deal-making, with its smooth bar, cosy nooks and intuitive floor staff. Chef Paolo Masciopinto plies classical flavours and contemporary techniques to deliver compelling dishes. Deep-black squid-ink spaghetti is topped with crab and a salty scattering of roe, the salumi board is unstinting in quality and interest, and the grill turns out magnificent steaks and shellfish. Pasta dishes, such as duck rotolo with mushrooms, are creative and comforting. Trickier offerings - a vitello tonnato with veal girello and foamed tuna mayonnaise, say - also generally pay off, but the real reward is to be ensconced in a restaurant so animated and optimistic.


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At a glance

  • Food:
  • One Star
  • Wine:
  • Two glasses
  • Price:
  • E $6-$19

    M $27-$38

    D $12-$18

  • Feature:
  • Licensed
    Outdoor dining
  • Cards:
  • American Express
    Diners Club
  • Bookings:
  • Bookings recommended
  • Chef:
  • Paolo Masciopinto



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