Lunch Sat-Sun noon-3pm
Dinner Wed-Sat 6.30pm-9.30pm
It doesn't get much more Sydney than this. Through the glass of the small tiled shopfront, light streams in from Bondi beach and beyond. The chalkboard menu, gaily coloured tablecloths and jars of roses (from owner Sean Moran's garden, no less) foster a laidback, almost picnic vibe, but the care in the cooking and the experience on the floor are by no means slapdash. Moran presents his food simply, preferring to put the emphasis on meticulous sourcing than fiddling with tweezers. But it's far from rote. Coastal greens give sweet snapper broth, abob with scallop and prawn dumplings, the perfect saline bite, while kumera fritters lend weight to a variety of cuts of roasted Melanda Park pork set on a bed of purple Brussels sprouts with a grape relish. Wine is offered from a tight list of Australian bottles, while dessert typically celebrates fruit in season, plums with a parsnip pudding, say, or persimmon and quince trifle. We like.