Restaurant Reviews

Shadow Wine Bar: Restaurant review

Address

214 William St
Northbridge, Perth, WA

Hours

E $16-$22
M $24-$42
D $14-$15

Prices

E $16-$22
M $24-$42
D $14-$15

REVIEW

Shadow by name and aesthetic, this restaurant cuts a sophisticated silhouette on Northbridge's main artery. Clever use of light drapes the banquettes and open bar with a cocoon-like intimacy; it also accentuates the room's industrial good looks. Chirpy service, a weighty wine offering and the freedom to drink, snack and dine makes the in-house diner at Alex Hotel a real crowd-pleaser. The menu subtly channels the old-school European restaurants that once defined the neighbourhood, so char-grilled Fremantle octopus comes with kipfler potato coins and a lively romesco sauce, while Shark Bay crab spaghettini with capers, dill and blistered cherry tomatoes suggests the kitchen would do well to add more pasta to the carte. A well-caramelised pear tarte Tartin with tonka bean ice-cream is a reminder that there's beauty in the basics done well. Could we be looking at a blueprint for boutique hotel eateries of the future? Here's hoping.
Phone:
(08) 6430 4010
Bookings:
Bookings recommended
Features:
  • Licensed
  • Bar
  • Wheelchair Access
  • Outdoor dining
Accepted card types:
  • American Express
  • Diners Club
  • Eftpos
  • MasterCard
  • Visa
Chef(s):
Sue Hutchins
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.