Dinner Tue-Sat 6.30pm-9.30pm
The alpine town of Bright is famous for its rail trails, especially in autumn, when pin oaks turn yellow and red - and for Simones. In a converted century-old red-brick house, the Simone family delivers warm Italian hospitality and food while championing regional produce. Expect pan-fried Harrietville trout with crisp cavolo nero chips, garlicky kale and golden orbs of fish roe. Or Milawa quail juicy with a meaty stuffing, its skin beautifully caramelised, while thick slices of cotechino add richness and flavour to red cabbage, bitter greens and broccoli. Handmade pasta of unusual quality has long been a feature - perhaps tagliatelle wrapping around a duck ragù topped with pink slices of breast and freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano. Another local speciality, chestnuts, features in a death-by-chocolate dessert comprising mousse, crumble and honey meringue. Fittingly, the wine list teams the best of north-east Victoria with Italy's finest.
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