Lunch Sat-Sun noon-2.30pm
Dinner Wed-Sat 6pm-9.30pm
If you can judge the quality of a chef by their terrine, then John Evans is worth knowing. His jamón-wrapped example, studded with Thirlmere chicken and quail, is Impressionist art - a still life with a small loaf of brioche, chutney and tarragon butter. So, too, a salad of beetroot and fig with Binnorie feta and the crunch of toasted buckwheat. Sonia Greig, Evans's spouse, oversees the attentive staff and a modestly priced, local-leaning wine list. This couple has created a welcoming, unpretentious European-style restaurant that cleverly walks the line between modern smarts and country-hearty, whether it's the excellent steak sandwich for lunch, or pork loin with parsnip purée, crisped kale and cider jus. Dark chocolate mousse with milk sorbet, raspberries, wattleseed crumbs and macadamia brittle is both opulent and proof that Evans combines the best of contemporary sophistication and rustic charm to make South on Albany so impressive.