Lunch Mon-Fri noon-3pm;
dinner Mon-Wed 6pm-10.30pm, Thu-Sat 6pm-11pm
Neil Perry traverses regions less travelled here in a menu peppered with the lyrical names of Chinese provincial dishes. From Jiangxi, for instance, comes steamed eggplant with three flavours - blanched garlic, coriander and sweet pork, exhibited then mixed with a flourish at the table for a gentle yet flavoursome entrée. Sichuan-style fish, perhaps leatherjacket, drowned in heaven-facing chillies and Sichuan peppercorns is likewise delivered with a touch of tableside theatre, a waiter lifting the fillets from their broth through a slick of spicy oil - a surprisingly clean-flavoured dish with a tingling kick. Whether deftly negotiating the black-lacquered tables in the moodily lit dining room, talking relative chilli factors or advising on the 100-strong wine list, waitstaff are admirably professional and personable. The three-milk cake bejewelled with pistachio nuts and dried raspberry is equally impressive, an ovation-worthy close to the feistier acts.