REVIEW
At Mildura’s Grand Hotel, there’s no shortage of dining options (café, grill, pizza), but nearly 30 years on, there’s still nothing in this Victorian town to match the appeal and rustic sophistication of Stefano’s. In a cellar lined with clothed tables and classical music, Stefano de Pieri marries Mildura produce with Italian brio to winning effect. Try a Victorian burrata with prosciutto di Parma and grissini, then the soufflé-like sformato of zucchini slathered in béchamel. Pappardelle in goat ragù is cucina povera par excellence, while local lamb arrives tender with a modest entourage of agrodolce spring onions and flat beans. The affordable wine list showcases Italian grapes, but with a proud emphasis on local renditions. When dessert comes – a vanilla bavarois with mango – order a botrytis-style Noble Taminga, made beside the Murray from a CSIRO grape hybrid, to best see how innovation in wine and tradition in food define the Stefano’s experience.
Phone:
(03) 5022 0881
Website:
Bookings:
Bookings recommended
Features:
Licensed
Vegetarian-friendly
Private room
Impressive Wine List
Accepted card types:
American Express
Eftpos
MasterCard
Visa
Chef(s):
Stefano de Pieri & Stefano Panzetti
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★ ★ ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
