Dinner Tue-Sat 7pm-9pm
Chunky house-made cotechino sausage served with lentils and pickled radicchio, shallots and carrots. Sublime, soufflé-like Tuscan cabbage and Gorgonzola sformato. Rough-cut pasta tossed with broccoli, salted ricotta and chilli flakes. Stefano de Pieri brings his best country Italian trattoria game to the atmospheric, art-strewn cellar restaurant in Mildura he's owned for a quarter of a century. The space and charming service are drawcards, but the main reason the recently spruced-up rabbit warren of low-ceilinged rooms often hits capacity is the pride evident on every plate. Precise cooking, classic flavour combinations and impressive, often organic, ingredients are all present in each of the set menu's five courses, from slow-cooked beef cheek served on polenta to vanilla bavarois teamed with poached quince. The wine list is mostly a Victorian-Italian split and well-priced, even at the upper end where the Barolo lurks.
Set 5-course menu $95