Lunch daily noon-3pm
Dinner daily 6pm-9.30pm
It's back. After a fire, pop-up and inevitable delays, Melbourne's favourite beachside clubhouse for the well-heeled and (mostly) well-dressed is up and running inside an impressive new Robert Simeoni building with subtly glam interiors by Pascale Gomes-McNabb. Even with higher ceilings, more room, a better bar and turbo-charged views, this is still the Stokehouse of legend where being in the room is as important as anything on the plate. The food ticks boxes rather than weakening knees, though some dishes - poached marron salad with finger-lime cream, smoked eel on a rice cracker, The Bombe dessert - continue to impress. Others, like pricey fish and chips, are puzzlingly flat. The wine list toes a "something for everybody's credit card" line with blowout French benchmarks mixed in with well-priced minimal-interventionist locals. Service, always a Stokehouse strong point, stays focused and steadfastly cheery. It's good to have it back.