REVIEW
For the already impressive Ten Minutes by Tractor, 2017 was a year of deep investment – and exquisite return. The decade-old dining room, reopened in April in sleek, urbane style: a vision in Japanese marble and heather-grey velvet. The upgrade is everywhere, from service through to Zalto glassware that does justice to the 88-page, Old-World-heavy wine list. Stuart Bell’s cooking, equal in ambition and execution, marries European technique to local produce. Pan-fried sweetbreads are wonderfully autumnal paired with chestnuts, grilled baby leeks and a jumble of mushrooms. Roasted venison loin with parsnips evokes a similar feel, sharpened by a purée of quandong and a pepper berry jus. You could argue that desserts, like a chocolate pavé with a beetroot and crème fraîche ice-cream, are more complex than pleasurable but, overall, the new Ten Minutes by Tractor exhibits both those qualities in a beautifully assured fashion.
Phone:
(03) 5989 6080
Website:
https://tenminutesbytractor.com.au
Bookings:
Bookings essential
Features:
Licensed
Vegetarian-friendly
Wheelchair Access
Impressive Wine List
Accepted card types:
American Express
Eftpos
MasterCard
Visa
Chef(s):
Stuart Bell
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
2018 Top 100 Rank – #48
Food: ★ ★
Wine: ★ ★ ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
