Lunch Sat noon-2pm
Dinner Tue-Fri 5.30pm-9pm, Sat 6.30pm-9pm
From the moment that graceful men in dinner jackets open the doors, Tetsuya's is a performance - and with such Zen surrounds and seamless service, there's not a bad seat in the house. Slather malt bread with ricotta, parmesan and black truffle butter as you thumb the impressive wine list. Then hush: the show's about the begin. The dégustation is around eight courses; while momentum slows at times, there's plenty of reason to applaud. Delicate waves of salt, acidity and sweetness are the calling cards of pickled cucumber dotted with piquant carrot purée and diced apple, while sake lees and tomato lend brilliant flavour to toothfish on fregola. The highly photogenic confit ocean trout with roe is still here - a signature on the menu for more than two decades - but these days it has competition from almond curd and roasted soba ice-cream with rockmelon granita. Even without any music, Tetsuya's still dances. A seated ovation.