Dinner Mon-Thu 6pm-10pm
Fri-Sat noon-11pm, Sun noon-9.30pm
The Apollo enlivens a piece of Potts Point still labouring under the lockout laws, and while the superb interior and sleek personnel (on the floor and seated at the tables) might be fashionable, they are not fairweather. This place has a Dionysian heart. The Greek cuisine it serves is modernised, yes, but it's essentially earthy. Baked lamb shoulder with lemon Greek yoghurt has a very local touch in the ironbark firing the wood grill on which it's finished, a secret worthy of Promethean theft. The kritharaki pasta might sound like something out of Game of Thrones, but the twin richness of its oxtail and tomato sauce has subtlety. Vegetables are not an afterthought, not least the wild weed and cheese pie, and the okra, sharpened with vinegar and tart cherry tomatoes. The signature dessert of loukoumades, Greece's doughnuts, remains compulsory. For a dish that may be 3000 years old, it refreshes anew. Much like The Apollo itself.