The Argus Dining Room
Modern Australian
The Argus Dining Room
-37.311611,144.138407

Hotel restaurants must cater to all tastes and often the result is a menu that neither offends nor delights. The Argus is not such a restaurant, yet it offers the pluses of 1930s hotel dining - the grand entrance, the sense of occasion. Chef David Willcocks reboots expectations from the get-go with a raw amuse-bouche: daikon enclosing enoki with a ginger emulsion. To follow, cured rainbow trout with fermented cabbage and crème fraîche, or pressed pig's head with scallops and piccalilli. The bold approach continues through main courses of bloody-rare lamb loin with kofta, sheep's milk and spiced carrot purée, and in punches of flavour alongside a snapper fillet: soy-butter cubes, salty squid curls, blackbean sauce. The hefty wine list has a section headed "Weird Ones" alongside benchmark Heathcote shiraz. Service is warm and professional right to the end - parsnip ice-cream, burnt-honey jelly and medlar custard.


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At a glance

  • Food:
  • One Star
  • Wine:
  • Three glasses
  • Price:
  • E $21-$25

    M $32-$48

    D $17-$18

  • Feature:
  • Licensed
    Bar
    Vegetarian
    Impressive Wine List
  • Cards:
  • American Express
    Eftpos
    MasterCard
    Visa
  • Bookings:
  • Bookings essential
  • Chef:
  • David Willcocks

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