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73
The Argus Dining Room
Modern Australian
The Argus Dining Room
-37.311611,144.138407

The sympathetic renovation of The Argus's high-ceilinged Art Deco dining room - all flattering lighting, upholstered seating and glass-and-timber dividers - gives an excellent first impression. As calm, efficient staff get things moving, it soon becomes apparent that good looks are just part of the package. Chef David Willcocks's food is imaginative and sometimes complex, but he's not one for superfluous flourishes. Marron, beef tendon, smoked eel and tofu are submerged in an elegant XO-flavoured broth; beautifully cooked snapper joins forces with a rich fried-egg mayonnaise and a superb black-bean sauce; wagyu Scotch fillet teams with bresaola, baby onion rings and radish leaves. Desserts, such as a traditional Spanish custard with passionfruit, lemon verbena ice-cream and yoghurt foam, also nail the multi-ingredient juggling act, with the local producer-friendly wine list providing impressive back-up.


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At a glance

  • Food:
  • One Star
  • Wine:
  • Two glasses
  • Price:
  • E $21-$26

    M $32-$48

    D $17-$20

  • Feature:
  • Licensed
    Bar
    Vegetarian
    Private room
  • Cards:
  • American Express
    Eftpos
    MasterCard
    Visa
  • Bookings:
  • Bookings recommended
  • Chef:
  • David Willcocks

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