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93
The Atlantic
Seafood
  • Riverside at Crown,
    8 Whiteman St,
    Southbank,
    Melbourne, VIC
  • (03) 9698 8888,
    theatlantic.com.au
  • Lunch daily noon-3pm

    Dinner daily 6pm-11pm

The Atlantic
-37.824779,144.958173

The ocean-to-plate philosophy is writ large across The Atlantic, from the seafood-driven menu to the nautical-kitsch décor of net curtains and rope-swathed lights. Although the interiors edge towards overstatement, Donovan Cooke is to be commended for his restraint. A rustic salad of wood-grilled calamari, radicchio, kipflers and garlicky croûtons is an assured blend. Whole baby snapper comes grilled, roasted or steamed, served simply with a wedge of lemon and a punchy garlic, chilli and anchovy sauce. Overcooked tiger prawns miss the mark, however, with little to recommend them beyond the hit of fried garlic. Service can lack the direction of the kitchen at times and, while the globetrotting wine list offers a noteworthy array, pacing may see your apéritif arrive after your entrée. All is forgiven with the first spoonful of dessert, perhaps a velvety spiced cassonade with the crunch of pistachio praline.

 


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At a glance

  • Food:
  • One Star
  • Wine:
  • One glass
  • Price:
  • E $18-$30

    M $38-$45

    D $16-$23

  • Feature:
  • Licensed
    Bar
    Wheelchair Access
    Outdoor dining
    Private room
  • Cards:
  • American Express
    Eftpos
    MasterCard
    Visa
  • Bookings:
  • Bookings recommended
  • Chef:
  • Donovan Cooke

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