Dinner Mon-Sat 6.30pm-9pm
Locals may experience flashbacks of rowing regattas and débutante evenings as they tread these aged floorboards. The nostalgia ends at the kitchen door, though. A well kitted-out crew has swept aside function food in favour of thoroughly modern plating and flavours. Octopus is rendered deeply tender, then charred and teamed with cubes of dehydrated watermelon and labne for acidity. Pink Muscovy duck breast is carefully sliced and set on daubs of cured beetroot purée. But is there a bit too much going on in a dish that combines shavings of Black Angus with plums, horseradish, pickles and a buttery mashed potato? Things get back on course with desserts - milk-skin shaved over berries both freeze-dried and fresh, for instance, bound by a rich crème pâtissière. A millennial floor team is part of the generational change at this local institution and great-value wine options come by the glass and carafe as well as the bottle.
4 courses $80, dégustation $110
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