The February issue

Our clean eating issue is out now, packed with super lunch bowls, gluten-free desserts and more - including our cruising special, covering all luxury on the seas.

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Recipes by Christine Manfield
21.02.2017

As the '90s dawned, darling chefs were pushing the boundaries of cooking in this country. A young Christine Manfield, just starting out at this heady time, soon became part of the generation that redefined modern Australian cuisine. She shares some of her timeless signatures from the era.

Cirrus, Sydney review
20.02.2017

Cirrus moves the Bentley team down to the water and into more lighthearted territory without sacrificing polish, writes Pat Nourse.

How to grow rocket
20.02.2017

A vegetable patch without rocket lacks a great staple, according to Mat Pember. The perennial performer is a leaf for all seasons.

50BestTalks brings World’s best chefs to Sydney and Melbourne
16.02.2017

Massimo Bottura and more are coming to the Sydney Opera House.

Toby Wilson, Sean McManus and Jon Kennedy to open Bad Hombres
16.02.2017

Expect Mexican-Asian flavours and an all-natural wine list from two of Sydney’s edgier operators.

Local Knowledge: Moscow
16.02.2017

Director of Shakespeare theatre company Cheek by Jowl Declan Donnellan walks us through the essential sights and his favourite cafes and restaurants of his hometown.

On the Pass: Danielle Rensonnet
16.02.2017

Bellota chef Danielle Rensonnet talks us through the current menu at the restaurant and her favourite summer ingredients.

Melbourne's Tomato Festival is back in 2017
15.02.2017

Returning for another year, Melbourne’s Tomato Festival is ripe with cooking demonstrations, talks, and produce stalls dedicated to plump produce.

The Boat House by the Lake
Modern Australian
The Boat House by the Lake
-35.32798,149.142237

Locals may experience flashbacks of rowing regattas and débutante evenings as they tread these aged floorboards. The nostalgia ends at the kitchen door, though. A well kitted-out crew has swept aside function food in favour of thoroughly modern plating and flavours. Octopus is rendered  deeply tender, then charred and teamed with cubes of dehydrated watermelon and labne for acidity. Pink Muscovy duck breast is carefully sliced and set on daubs of cured beetroot purée. But is there a bit too much  going on in a dish that combines shavings of Black Angus with plums, horseradish, pickles and a buttery mashed potato? Things get back on course with desserts - milk-skin shaved over berries both freeze-dried and fresh, for instance, bound by a rich crème pâtissière. A millennial floor team is part of the generational change at this local institution and great-value wine options come by the glass and carafe as well as the bottle.  


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At a glance

  • Wine:
  • Two glasses
  • Price:
  • 4 courses $80, dégustation $110

  • Feature:
  • BYO
    Licensed
    Wheelchair Access
    Private room
  • Cards:
  • American Express
    Diners Club
    Eftpos
    MasterCard
    Visa
  • Bookings:
  • Bookings essential
  • Chef:
  • John Leverink

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