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Kensington, hold onto your hats.
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Dinner Mon-Sat 6.30pm-9pm
For locals, the slightly retro feel of The Boat House - replete with First-Fleet kangaroo print above the fireplace - evokes memories of weddings and school leavers' dinners. Any sense of nostalgia, however, ends at the pass. John Leverink's troop of culinary modernistas has ditched function food for sharp fine dining. Supple and juicy chook is smartly plated with a sausage of trimmings, sage and pancetta, and just-cooked cauliflower. An intensely smoky corn purée contrasts with the sweetness of seared scallops. And while desserts nod to tradition, their execution is thoroughly modern - apple crumble arrives as buttery crumbs separately plated from lightly poached fruit. Service is polite and professional, even if The Boat House is something of a training ground. The wine list's local focus complements sweeping views of Canberra's cultural institutions and the Brindabellas.
4 courses $80, dégustation $130
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