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The Devonshire
Modern Australian
  • 204 Devonshire St,
    Surry Hills,
    Sydney, NSW
  • (02) 9698 9427,
  • Lunch Fri noon-2.30pm

    Dinner Tue-Sat 6pm-10pm

The Devonshire

Little of the sophistication of Jeremy Bentley's food is given away on entering this unassuming restaurant. Here a gazpacho is not the Spanish soup we're all familiar with, but a small pool of superbly balanced red pepper and heirloom tomato purée dotted with salty Persian feta, flecks of dried olive and whole almonds - a harmonious jumble of texture and flavour. It's a refreshing, confident start to a meal that draws on Bentley's heritage at Sydney's dearly departed Restaurant Balzac. Those roots are evident in dishes such as the slow-cooked wagyu rump cap with smoked brisket. Additions of a carrot purée and seeded mustard coleslaw lift the dish and provide much-needed contrast - as do the cherry jam and ice-cream added to the signature Devonshire tea crème brûlée at dessert. The service is attentive (and, like the food, assured), rounded off neatly by a well-conceived French-leaning wine list.

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At a glance

  • Price:
  • E $25

    M $36

    D $16

    Dégustation $90

  • Feature:
  • BYO
  • Cards:
  • American Express
  • Bookings:
  • Bookings recommended

    BYO (Tue-Thu)
  • Chef:
  • Jeremy Bentley



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