Lunch Fri noon-2.30pm
Dinner Mon-Sat 6pm-10pm
It's easy to miss The Devonshire from the street, but step inside and you'll find a jewel box of a restaurant, decked out with crisp white tablecloths and a swarm of gilt-edged mirrors. The room isn't huge but the comfort level is high, service is affable, and a short, eclectic wine list covers the bases. Think of it as bistro-plus, a neighbourhood local given a bit more muscle by the high polish Jeremy Bentley gives his food. European training underpins busy, thoroughly worked plates such as a loin of tuna with cured kingfish dressed with Indian spice, which, along with sweet coconut, meshes well with the fish. Roast duck breast with caponata, basil and glazed figs seems more Continental, but its richness is cut with the gentle tang of sumac. As a curtain call, the namesake dessert, a jolly take on Devonshire teas rendered in crème brûlée with scone ice-cream, jam and whipped cream, makes for a playful finish.
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