Lunch: Lunch Fri noon-3pm; dinner
Dinner: Tue-Sat 6.30pm-9pm
The elegant interior of this stately stone manse, dressed in chic charcoal and white, has been a dependable comfort in recent years, though a slimmer repertoire of dishes, diminished service and creeping prices have reclassified the dining experience. The focus is on dégustations, from which à la carte choices are lifted. Dishes look uniformly pretty on the plate: Rangers Valley beef sirloin with baby turnip, mayonnaise and herb emulsion; Good Fortune Bay barramundi with tomato, leek, comté foam and a cumin wafer. An expansive wine list of smart international varietals and good vintages is served with care. The meal hits a peak with pastry chef Emma Shearer's complex desserts. Sweet and tangy savoury notes play off each other as contrasting textures provide playful crunch and ooze in elderflower sorbet teamed with white chocolate parfait, passionfruit and intense licorice - a heavenly finale.
Tastings: Two courses $75, three courses; $95, dégustations $95-$140