After being given the full Merivale treatment, overhauled, opened up and with plenty of built-in patina, The Paddington is abuzz again. It serves what is essentially a pub menu, albeit one conceived by Ben Greeno, a chef whose brilliance earned Momofuku Seiobo three stars from this guide. Almost every table is laden with the signature roast chicken, but the standouts don't always issue from the gleaming rôtisseries. Nutty spelt salad with roasted cabbage, chunks of prawn and a welcome umami note of kombu is hard to resist. So too crab on toast, the sweet meat, fragrant with tarragon and chervil, perched on buttery sourdough. There's a minimal approach to desserts - translucent elderflower jelly served simply with raspberry sorbet, for instance - while the considered wine list hews to local and French varieties. The weakest link is hit-and-miss service, but The Paddington remains a very welcome addition to the strip regardless.