REVIEW
The city’s best ’80s playlist and fluent floor staff lend an undeniable sense of fun to this 40-seater, where supple leather booths and sculptured copper bring a sense of occasion. Ponder the premium wine list then opt for a five- or eight-course dégustation or go à la carte at lunch and weekday dinners. Chef Reuben Davis handles the pans with flair and imagination. Much of the menu is new (the gimmicky clothesline endures in a chocolate dessert) but Greece is still the word in dumpling-like polenta keftedes with Pyengana cheddar and bacon mayo and the horiatiki salad of Clarence River prawns with melon, XO sauce and mint so fragrant it steals the show. Psari – kingfish – is par-cooked then flash-fried and served in a kakavia soup. Purists may baulk at a deconstructed mandarin baklava but epicureans won’t fault the flavours.
Phone:
(03) 9677 9677
Website:
Bookings:
Bookings essential
Features:
Licensed
Vegetarian-friendly
Wheelchair Access
Private room
Impressive Wine List
Accepted card types:
American Express
Diners Club
Eftpos
MasterCard
Visa
Chef(s):
George Calombaris & Reuben Davis
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
2019 Top 100 Rank – #73
Food: ★
Wine: ★ ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
