Lunch Mon-Sat noon-3pm;
Dinner Mon-Sat 6pm-10.30pm
George Calombaris's intimate, glamorous, '70s nightclub-channelling fine-diner isn't cheap but it is fun. From a sometimes hilariously intrusive dance music soundtrack to the exuberant, sharp-witted waitstaff handing you scented hand towels with oversized tweezers and miniature Hills Hoists pegged with snacks, there's nothing po-faced about Press Club. There's humour on the set-course menus, too, though it's underpinned by seriously good cooking and well-considered flavour combinations, like char-grilled octopus served with lemon in three forms, hummus and baby herbs, or yoghurt sorbet teamed with caramelised olive oil and fennel flowers. Lamb shoulder with pickled caper leaves and John Dory lifted by a superb shiitake ketchup fly the comfort-food flag with class, while the booze offering - a hefty wine list, a cocktail trolley, an impressive collection of Greek liqueurs and brandy - helps the party atmosphere immensely.
Lunch 2-4 courses $35-$60;
Dinner 4-9 courses $95-$195
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