Lunch Thu-Sun noon-3pm;
Dinner Mon-Sat 5.30pm-10pm, Sun 5.30pm-9pm
No one would ever accuse Pablo Tordesillas of pulling his punches. In his days at Otto and at Brisbane favourite Ortiga, even at his most technical, flavour remained paramount. And so it is here on Hyde Park. The room and service might lean to the anodyne side of polished, and the name is the very definition of bland, but the menu comes out swinging. Superb anchovies contrast shiny green gordal olives, while colatura, the Italian fish sauce, brings the funk to a salad of nicely browned broccoli tossed with shreds of egg, fried shallot and currants. Do oysters need Granny Smith granita? Does the plate of kales need to be topped with lardo as well as migas cooked in chorizo fat? Possibly not. But in the face of exquisitely cooked Spanish mackerel sauced with watercress and piperade, or orange and sheep's milk yoghurt with little crisps of brik pastry and a whisper of rosemary, such moments of overenthusiasm are easy to forgive.
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