No, that's not a misprint: Ollie Gould, late of the Stokehouse in Melbourne, has switched coasts and is now at Shorehouse, a light-filled dining room with views of Swanbourne Beach. Gould devoting so much of the menu to seafood is no surprise, but the way he frames it is often unexpected. Charcoal-roasted cuttlefish with nectarine sauce is typical of these twists, while baby basil and finely shaved bottarga enliven raw tuna. Although beef tartare with sprouted grains and romesco sauce is a win for creative thinking, missteps like raw scallop doused with a tomato vinaigrette and chorizo crumbs aren't as successful. Orecchiette in a feisty clam and crab arrabiata, on the other hand, is a standout. Junior service invites restaurant-with-a-view comparisons, but a smart drinks list helps elevate Shorehouse. An inventive dessert of caramelised pineapple and coconut marshmallow also underscores this newcomer's potential.
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