Lunch Wed-Mon noon-3pm
Dinner Fri-Sat 6pm-pm
Artistic inspiration is never far away at The Source - from John Olsen's painting of the same name near the entry, to the Museum of Old and New Art's brooding, subterranean artwork several storeys below. Like David Walsh's art collection, there's a touch of post-modernism about the kitchen's creations, its fluid culinary identity shifting between fine dining and rustic regionalism. Sometimes it works well - roasted and smoked lamb shoulder with porcini mushrooms and spelt risotto is a standout, and scallops get plenty of lift from chorizo, tomato and cauliflower. But, while kingfish is an artwork on the plate, the imperceptible micro servings of local wasabi and samphire with it just lack oomph. Such imperfections are compensated for by polished service and a hefty wine list with global reach. All the better to have something to savour as you take in extensive views over the wild and industrial reaches of the upper Derwent River.
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