Schooners of Reschs, a pie-warmer, AC/DC blaring from the speakers and a pool table. The Unicorn's new handlers, the guys from Mary's and Porteño, aren't out to modernise the classic Aussie pub so much as reboot it. Out go the poker machines, in comes a renovation sympathetic to the glories of the site's timeless Art Deco lines. Yes, it's unrepentantly noisy, and upstairs orders are taken over the bar (the basement bistro has table service), but the approach of the kitchen - to simply cook pub food and cook it well rather than mess with the blueprint - bumps it onto the drinking diner's radar. Jatz and French onion dip is Jatz and French onion dip, but steak equals flavoursome cuts cooked with care, the mixed grill groans with flavour, flathead comes out juicy roasted whole on the bone with lemon and fried capers, and sides and sauces are all a cut above. Wine and dessert lists are concise, but deliver in spades, not least the pav with banana custard.
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