The Unicorn Hotel
Modern Australian
The Unicorn Hotel
-33.883354,151.221579

Schooners of Reschs, a pie-warmer, AC/DC blaring from the speakers and a pool table. The Unicorn's new handlers, the guys from Mary's and Porteño, aren't out to modernise the classic Aussie pub so much as reboot it. Out go the poker machines, in comes a renovation sympathetic to the glories of the site's timeless Art Deco lines. Yes, it's unrepentantly noisy, and upstairs orders are taken over the bar (the basement bistro has table service), but the approach of the kitchen - to simply cook pub food and cook it well rather than mess with the blueprint - bumps it onto the drinking diner's radar. Jatz and French onion dip is Jatz and French onion dip, but steak equals flavoursome cuts cooked with care, the mixed grill groans with flavour, flathead comes out juicy roasted whole on the bone with lemon and fried capers, and sides and sauces are all a cut above. Wine and dessert lists are concise, but deliver in spades, not least the pav with banana custard.


You might also like:

Bang, Sydney restaurant review

Panache could be a watchword for Bang, Surry Hills’ first fo...

A Guide to Sydney

Take a personal tour of some of Sydney’s more flavoursome hi...

At a glance

  • Wine:
  • One glass
  • Price:
  • E $12-$18

    M $20-$45

    D $15

  • Feature:
  • Licensed
    Bar
    Vegetarian
    Wheelchair Access
    Outdoor dining
    Impressive Wine List
  • Cards:
  • American Express
    Eftpos
    MasterCard
    Visa
  • Bookings:
  • No bookings
  • Chef:
  • Drew Corbel, Jake Smyth & Richard Learmonth

MOST VIEWED IN OUR RESTAURANT GUIDE

Smolt

Hobart, TAS
Smolt is the Volvo of Hobart restaurants: always reliable, without making a fuss. Secure ...

Bar Lourinha

Melbourne, VIC
Turning 10 has added spring to Bar Lourinha's step. Not that this perennially crowded fav...

Da Noi

Melbourne, VIC
First-timers should know a couple of things about Da Noi. First, there's no menu. Second,...

Esquire

Brisbane, QLD
Esquire isn't a restaurant for everyone. Control freaks, for instance, won't like letting...

Aubergine

Griffith, ACT
The grey-whiskered Ben Willis could pass for a maturing, but certainly not jaded, rock st...

1889 Enoteca

Brisbane, QLD
There's no better place in Brisbane to enjoy regional classics and seek out exciting, low...

Press Food & Wine

Adelaide, SA
Occupying a former printing house, Press specialises in meat hot off the wood-fired grill...

Bistrode CBD

Sydney, NSW
Chef Jeremy Strode began his career washing dishes at 14. His journey to Bistrode CBD has...
get the latest news

Sign up to receive the latest food, travel and dining news direct from Gourmet Traveller headquarters.

×