Lunch daily noon-3pm
Dinner daily 6pm-9.30pm
The cavernous, gorgeously restored Art Deco lobby of the Primus Hotel is an impressive setting for its signature restaurant. With an open kitchen, carpeted floors and blue and Burgundy banquettes, the dining space nails the grand hotel vibe, even if the well-meaning but slightly shaky service doesn't. Chef Ryan Hong's continent-hopping menu might be a puzzling fit with the classic décor but it has inspired moments that deserve attention. Moreton Bay bugs are imaginatively teamed with crushed peanut, grilled watermelon cubes and puréed edamame. Abalone and seaweed come together in a strangely comforting congee-risotto mash-up. Precisely cooked lamb loin shares a plate with sweetbreads and pearl barley, while gin and tonic sorbet lifts fresh berries and meringue. The wine list includes Greece and the US in the usual Old World-New World mix, an encompassing approach neatly mirroring Hong's wide-ranging style.
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