Lunch Wed-Fri noon-3pm
Dinner Tue-Sat 5.30pm-9.30pm
There's not a share plate in sight at this unassuming neighbourhood-style eatery. But you still may need to fend off forks when entrées land. Tender grilled squid is topped with chilli threads and teamed with an addictive soy butter, fronds of bitter frisée and finger lime pearls. A tartare sees smoky, soft-yolked quail egg sitting centre-plate, with rosemary mayo a counterpoint to the lightly spicy, sesame-dotted beef. A black leather banquette runs virtually the length of the modest timber-panelled room, bookended by an old-style bar to the rear, while a relatively concise wine list is as timeless as the service, fare and fit-out. For a main course, fillets of flash-fried whiting arrive butterflied, skin on, over lemony zucchini slices, with Italian dandelion, fennel, pollen and finger lime - the result is briny and textural. There's plenty to love about a warm chocolate tart, too, from its molten core to the accompanying quenelle of passionfruit sorbet.