Restaurant Guide

The Wolfe: Restaurant review

There's not a share plate in sight at this unassuming neighbourhood-style eatery. But you still may need to fend off forks when entrées land.

Address

989 Stanley St
East Brisbane,
Brisbane, Qld

Hours

Lunch Thu-Fri noon-2.30pm
Dinner Tue-Sat 6pm-10pm

Prices

E $24-$29
M $36-$42
D $19
Dégustations $90-$125

Josue Lopez may have departed the city for his first solo project, but there's nothing suburban about his menu – it displays the same artful flair that secured him much acclaim at GOMA. Native ingredients remain front and centre, not least in an emblematic match-up of seared kangaroo loin and hand-cut emu tartare in a wattle-evoking composition featuring wattleseed, purslane and pumpkin acacia. The cranberry-clove notes of lilly pilly add a sharp local edge to a veal tartare-like offering, with king brown mushroom purée alongside. Wattleseed reappears at dessert, this time in a cacao-dusted, lightly coffee-flavoured yoghurt studded with brittle chunks of chocolate, macadamia and rosella. Lopez's wife Krystal oversees the friendly service (and painted the impressive canvasses adorning the VJ walls of this lovely Queenslander). If the painted cray dish is on, dressed up with scallop foam, tender octopus and glass-like potato shards, nab it. Drinks are in tune with the "local not parochial" motif, mainly Australian within the appealing by-the-glass selection, backed by a swag of Champagne.
Phone:
(07) 3891 7772
Bookings:
Bookings recommended
Features:
  • Licensed
  • Bar
  • Outdoor dining
  • Vegetarian-friendly
Accepted card types:
  • American Express
  • Eftpos
  • MasterCard
  • Visa
Chef:
Josue Lopez
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.