In the beginning there was the word, and the word was pasta. Tipo 00 is the high church of Italy's favourite carbohydrate, the handsome mid-century room complete with a stage-lit marble altar where chefs work their doughy magic. Tagliolini al nero (supple ribbons of squid-ink pasta with shavings of squid and a scattering of bottarga) is reason alone for carb-dodgers to repent, but there are other songs in this hymn book. Pappardelle with a marjoram-scented rabbit braise and roasted hazelnut crunch, for example. Or the earthy funk of shaved black Valencia truffle on a rich mushroom risotto. One cannot live by rice and pasta alone (or can one?), so there are fried zucchini flowers stuffed with pine nuts, ricotta and walnut bread, or grilled asparagus for swiping through an almond purée. The Italian-focused wine list takes the road less travelled, and the service led by co-owner Luke Skidmore copes admirably with the daily mass.
Sign up to receive the latest food, travel and dining news direct from Gourmet Traveller headquarters.×