Don't be fooled into putting Tipo 00 in the too-hard basket. Sure, a booking here can be as tricky to secure as an audience with the pope, but place your faith in the walk-in policy (and prepare to arrive early) and you'll be rewarded with a seat at the marble bar. From here, you can watch as fine Italian wines are swirled, sniffed and poured, and Aperol Spritzes are garnished in proper Venetian fashion with a skewered green olive. Aperitivo in hand, turn to the open kitchen, where squid ink tagliolini is twirled with near-translucent ribbons of squid and finished with bottarga, and gnocchi are tossed through luscious duck and porcini ragù. The handcrafted pasta is the undisputed star, but it's ably supported by entrées such as smoked eel with peppery mizuna purée and curls of purple carrot. Finish with a caramelised peach with shortbread, lime and white chocolate mousse, and something short and sharp from the shelves of grappa and amari.