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Dinner: Thu-Sat 7pm-10pm
The magic of Karl and Katrina Kanetani's cooking would flourish anywhere, but to savour such skills in a narrow heritage terrace with creaky stairs and beige carpet makes it all the more extraordinary. The $85 dégustation is a tour-de-force and incredible value. Curls of pink-tinted kingfish beneath a snow of macadamia shavings, dotted with tiny nibs of nutty wild rice, are creamy and fresh and the addition of chive curls and a citrusy ponzu ramps everything up a notch. Heady fenugreek oil brings a touch of the exotic to a round of beautifully pink local sirloin, paired with buttery mung bean spouts and inky black, umami-rich burnt shallot paste. Matched wines are the go, and unflappable floor staff will cheerfully dispense half pours. The savoury-sweet tightrope sashayed by blueberry cheesecake with its scatter of mature chèvre nuggets will have you crying for an encore.