2014 Restaurant Guide

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Modern Australian

The magic of Karl and Katrina Kanetani's cooking would flourish anywhere, but to savour such skills in a narrow heritage terrace with creaky stairs and beige carpet makes it all the more extraordinary. The $85 dégustation is a tour-de-force and incredible value. Curls of pink-tinted kingfish beneath a snow of macadamia shavings, dotted with tiny nibs of nutty wild rice, are creamy and fresh and the addition of chive curls and a citrusy ponzu ramps everything up a notch. Heady fenugreek oil brings a touch of the exotic to a round of beautifully pink local sirloin, paired with buttery mung bean spouts and inky black, umami-rich burnt shallot paste. Matched wines are the go, and unflappable floor staff will cheerfully dispense half pours. The savoury-sweet tightrope sashayed by blueberry cheesecake with its scatter of mature chèvre nuggets will have you crying for an encore.

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At a glance

  • Food:
  • One Star
  • Wine:
  • One glass
  • Price:
  • Dégustation $85

  • Feature:
  • Licensed
    Outdoor dining
    Private room
  • Cards:
  • American Express
  • Chef:
  • Karl & Katrina Kanetani


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