An upscale vegetarian restaurant calling itself Transformer sounds eerily close to a militant mission statement, but diners with more sedate temperaments have nothing to fear. It's a revolution in a velvet glove, set in a brilliantly converted factory where vines serve as room dividers, the lighting is set to date-night flattery, and herb-filled cocktails enhance the party vibe. The food is vegetarian, and frequently vegan. Consider a bao-like spelt and seed bun with fried tofu, pickled cucumber and a tingling gochujang mayonnaise, or roasted tomatoes magicked into a deeply flavoured tartare cut with pickled shimeji and seaweed. It's all designed for sharing, whether it's dishes such as roasted sweet potato bristling with togarashi and mollified by coconut yoghurt, or highly Instagrammable desserts like the syrupy almond sponge with peaches, meringue and ginger ice-cream crowned by a frond of candied fennel.
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