Restaurant Reviews

Union Dining: Restaurant review

Address

270-272 Swan St
Richmond, Melbourne, VIC

Hours

Lunch Mon-Sun noon-3pm
Dinner Mon-Sat 6pm-10pm

Prices

E $15-$22
M $31-$38
D $12-$15

REVIEW

There's a pleasurably unpretentious spirit to Union Dining, a reminder of that oft-forgotten word, hospitality. Nicky Riemer and Adam Cash's restaurant road-trips across France, Italy and Spain, evoking bistro-trattoria memories. Start with a rooftop Negroni, before settling downstairs for Riemer's rustic-leaning offerings, executed with urbane care. Crudo might take the form of kingfish enlivened with shaved fennel, cucumber, mint and a zippy escabeche sauce. Spaghettini with chopped prawns sounds simple, but the USP is the saucing: in place of the usual tomato or wine-based sauce, Riemer offers a seafood bisque of depth and complexity. For fresh comfort food, it's hard to go past the parmesan-crumbed Western Plains pork rib-eye, its robustness hijacked by a Sicilian slaw of red cabbage, almonds and currants. Finish with chocolate fudge dressed with malt ice-cream, dulce de leche, honeycomb and orange caramel. Happy food in a happy house.
Phone:
(03) 9428 2988
Bookings:
Bookings recommended
Features:
  • BYO
  • Licensed
  • Bar
  • Vegetarian-friendly
  • Wheelchair Access
  • Outdoor dining
  • Private room
  • Impressive Wine List
Accepted card types:
  • American Express
  • Eftpos
  • MasterCard
  • Visa
Chef(s):
Nicky Riemer
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.