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Vanitas
Modern Australian
Vanitas
-27.967167,153.426371

Marble flooring, silk banquettes and vistas to a pool as blue as the edges of your rococo Versace plate - this bijou spot isn't shy about parading its charms. A trio of amuse-bouches and a sorbet precede entrées - so there's no stinting by the kitchen, either. Butter-tender cuttlefish ribbons, bookended by samphire-strewn squid-ink sponge "rocks", create a dramatic foil for sweet scarlet-skinned yabby flesh and bisque foam. Guinea fowl is classically good, roasted and paired with asparagus and peas, the earthy flavours of mushroom underpinned by a savoury jus theatrically poured tableside to dial the umami up a notch. A globe-spanning, 550 bottle-strong wine list continues the more-is-more theme, but steep pricing is a mood kill - ditto obsequious service. Yoghurt sorbet lifts spirits again, arriving with a hay-smoked Valrhona mousse aquiver with gold leaf. It's richness beyond your dreams.


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At a glance

  • Food:
  • One Star
  • Wine:
  • Two glasses
  • Price:
  • 3 courses $98, dégustation $135

  • Feature:
  • BYO
    Licensed
    Vegetarian
    Wheelchair Access
  • Cards:
  • American Express
    Diners Club
    Eftpos
    MasterCard
    Visa
  • Bookings:
  • Bookings recommended

    (BYO Thu)
  • Chef:
  • James Fiskee

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