REVIEW
“This restaurant is very Italian,” says our very Italian waiter. So Italian, in fact, that she accidentally announces the price of one of the dishes in euros. It all adds to the charm of this offshoot of star chef Alessandro Pavoni’s more formal Ormeggio. Via Alta means “high street” (check the address), and here the mood is that of a relaxed trattoria, the warm interiors accented with timber, soft lighting and leather banquettes. A generous list of daily specials runs from staples such as the ever-popular arancini, this version with mushroom and truffled pecorino, and insalata Caprese, the classic tomato and buffalo mozzarella salad, to swordfish carpaccio dressed dramatically with squid ink and pink peppercorns. Butter-tender calamari fritti might be a safe option, but it’s also executed masterfully, and there’s nonna-level comfort in the hearty pappardelle with beef cheek ragù. A welcome taste of northern Italy on the north shore.
Phone:
(02) 9958 1110
Website:
Bookings:
Bookings recommended
Features:
BYO
Licensed
Wheelchair Access
Private room
Impressive Wine List
Accepted card types:
American Express
Eftpos
MasterCard
Visa
Chef(s):
Alex Keene
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
