Lunch Tue-Sun noon-3pm;
Dinner daily 6pm-10pm
"This restaurant is very Italian," says our very Italian waiter. So Italian, in fact, that she accidentally announces the price of one of the dishes in euros. It all adds to the charm of this offshoot of star chef Alessandro Pavoni's more formal Ormeggio. Via Alta means "high street" (check the address), and here the mood is that of a relaxed trattoria, the warm interiors accented with timber, soft lighting and leather banquettes. A generous list of daily specials runs from staples such as the ever-popular arancini, this version with mushroom and truffled pecorino, and insalata Caprese, the classic tomato and buffalo mozzarella salad, to swordfish carpaccio dressed dramatically with squid ink and pink peppercorns. Butter-tender calamari fritti might be a safe option, but it's also executed masterfully, and there's nonna-level comfort in the hearty pappardelle with beef cheek ragù. A welcome taste of northern Italy on the north shore.